A slumping economy has caught much of the apparel industry off guard and faltering under an increasingly volitile wave that can be attributed to the deflation of pricing on mainstream American labels, increased manufacturing costs and savvier consumers who are putting more thought into their purchases.

While the price of gas, utilities and groceries has skyrocketed, discretionary (non-essential) spending has been hit hard. “Fast fashion” retailers have fared okay so far in this lackluster market, but eventually, something has got to give.

Many of the staples in mainstream American apparel (Levi’s jeans, Lacoste polos) have actually decreased in price, even when adjusted for inflation due in part to the trend of moving manufacturing to countries with cheaper labor costs. But with the dollar losing steam, those rates have jumped. “As far as bottom costs go, we’re there. I think we’ve exploited all the countries on earth for people who really want to work for nothing,” said Bud Konheim, the chief executive office of Nicole Miller (NYTimes.com).

In many social circles, it is now hip to focus on individuality with regards to fashion and making thoughtful purchases. Instead of purchasing a gaudy, logo-driven article that is instantly recognizable (and quickly dated), people are leaning towards rare, more unique items. “Everything we pick up today has to pass a test,” said Candace Corlett, the president of WSL Strategic Retail, a consulting group. And, with so many options nowadays, who can blame consumers for taking their time to make a purchase? Unfortunately, the NY Times mentions that this is causing many fashion executives to feel the pressure on their bottom lines. Bud Konheim laments that “We as a business cannot afford to have a customer take a second look and ask, ‘Do I need this?’ That is the kiss of death. We’re finished, because nobody really needs anything we make as a total industry.”

Not everyone is faring badly in the tough American economy. Tom Wallace, President of trend forecasting company Label Networks lists a handful of brands including American Apparel, H&M and Uniqlo that are weathering the storm surprisingly well. This may be because of their ability to deliver consistently on-trend clothing in basic shapes at reasonable prices that are easily mixed in with what consumers already own.

To be fair, the recession isn’t hitting everyone. The International Herald Tribune says that “While American buyers are keeping an uncharacteristically low profile, with a beady eye on the miserable dollar exchange rate, other parts of the world are rejoicing in burgeoning markets and have no thought of recession.”

To cope with the lagging economy, luxury fashion houses are surviving the downturn by pushing accessories including jewelry, shoes and handbags more heavily. While shoppers might pass up high priced trendy clothing, they will still drop money on items they can use regularly.

As the U.S. recession deepens, it will be interesting to see what creative tactics brands will employ to stay relevant when consumers are more concerned with basic needs. With rock bottom prices already the norm in the nation’s collective consciousness, the sinking of many labels will be inevitable.

Obama’s viral timepiece.

These days the advertising and marketing world is all abuzz with phrases such as - Social Media, Social Advertising, Facebook Ads, Mass Media Networking Advertising…..etc, etc.. In the last two weeks I have been a panelist at the L I S A seminar in Portland and the Hawaii MusicTech Conference in Honolulu. L.I.S.A., which is an acronym for Lessons In Social Advertising, was aimed at marketers and advertisers who [for some reason] don’t understand social networks or haven’t yet worked out how to advertise effectively to them. It focused on topics such as ‘What is social advertising?’ and ‘How do you get young people to recommend your brand?’ The Hawaii MusicTech panel discussed how musicians could effectively use social networks such as Facebook and MySpace to reach an audience and communicate with them.

Two sides of the table as it were. One group wants to advertise, or push, their messages to a mass audience, while the other wants to create a network of like-minded people who hopefully will pull content such as free MP3s and then “evangelize” on behalf of the musicians by spreading messages by electronic word of mouth. With no hint of schizophrenia I happily migrate between both camps.

To understand and embrace social networking is to place the idea that says “technology makes this possible” to one side and embrace the idea of the basic human need to stay in touch with other like-minded people at all times. As Clay Shirky says “The desire to be part of a group that shares, cooperates, or acts in concert is a basic human instinct.” Think about rock concerts for a minute…..

Most people that take a position on social networking and advertising come at it from a technological point of view, as in “technology has created the means for everyone to be connected and to stay in touch.” I disagree with that statement because it removes nature from the game. It is entirely natural for humans to want to interact as often as possible as we are all social animals. Cities are no more artificial (technological) than the hives of bees. Therefore the Internet is as natural as a spider’s web. People who believe that technology is driving our interactions are missing the point - we ourselves are technological devices, invented by ancient bacterial communities as a means of genetic survival. Bottom line - social media is as natural as apple pie as we all want to be as connected as possible - we can’t help it. [A really good book from which I have borrowed some thoughts is 'Straw Dogs' by John Gray, professor of European thought at LSE, published in the UK by Granta.]

Online networks might be seen as antidotes to boredom at work, school or college. These new social networks do more than transmit information about their members, they change behaviour by propagating moods. These days we can all share “news” really fast, even about ourselves - for example, my Facebook or Twitter status might say “I’m heading to the beach in Waikiki…” and the mood that simple statement makes might become very contagious.

The Internet confirms what we have all known for a long time - the world is ruled by the power of suggestion but in the case of social networking it is “influencers” that lead the suggesting. Then suggestions might become “group think.” John Gray writes - “in evolutionary prehistory, consciousness emerged as a side effect of language. Today it is a by product of media.”

So, the question currently being asked by companies and advertisers is “how do we market and advertise to social networks?” Having to ask that question suggests the rocky ground that online advertisers are standing on. For instance, Jack Myers sees nothing but doom and gloom in online marketing: He says “Advertising is simply not a sufficient revenue model to sustain content companies into the long-term future.” And goes on -

“I have preached evangelically for nearly three decades about the bifurcation of the media and advertising marketplace into 1) a transactional commodity business model and 2) a relationship-based brand-focused premium marketplace. Most media companies and agencies are investing appropriately in the technology resources required for their transactional businesses. [But] Brand building, relationship-based business models and premium-priced enterprises require completely new and innovative models, and can take years before they generate returns that justify the investments. Industry realities place enormous pressure on executives to adhere to traditional business models, and companies that foster and advance innovation are often drained of resources before they can deliver the return-on-investment demanded by the stock market, equity rights holders and VC investors. Typically, implementation of new business models must be forcefully imposed by the CEO, need the blessing of investors, and they cannot be managed by executives trained exclusively in the ways of traditional media and advertising.”

Neil Perkin in a slideshow entitled ‘What’s Next in Media’ that can be found here says that today - Social Media is counter-intuitive to communications media. Here’s one of his slides that shows just how counter-intuitive things have become for marketing online:

Meanwhile, the old way of marketing is through push messaging and therein lies the mistake of many of today’s marketing managers. Take a look at this slide to see how things don’t stack up nicely into a marketing message or ‘drop’ that has been long planned waiting its turn on the calendar.

The Linear model above reminds me of traditional TV and Print advertising. Some people in advertising and marketing today still view the Internet as a “channel” rather like TV.

Let’s consider another buzz phrase - viral marketing online. The success of YouTube in extending an advertising campaigns length and reach is now common currency. We’ve all seen the videos, perhaps even this one - My girlfriend and the Wii Fit. 2.2 million views and going strong.
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