Whereas devotees of fashion once staked out the newsstands to get their latest fix of the freshest magazines, a new movement has been rapidly gaining momentum over the last few years. Online publications designed to imitate their glossy counterparts are popping up and now receiving hundreds of thousands of visitors each month.

While fashion folks are still faithful to their printed publications, the ease and low cost of constantly updating an online version with fresh content in our blog obsessed, 24/7 society has become increasingly important. Additionally, now that many consider social networking to be a cornerstone of human interaction, most of the newer online magazines have the added advantage of allowing people to comment on articles and connect in forums. The letter to the editor page that traditional magazines employ at the beginning of each issue now seems stale in comparison.

Online magazines are now trying to draw a line in the sand between themselves and blogs by focusing on premium photography, full length articles, and high end fashion with information and direct links to the designers.

The traditional magazines have always done a fantastic job of offering many of the quality elements that their online counterparts are now just perfecting such as beautifully photographed spreads and in-demand designer items. But, now that they’ve caught up in their appearance and offerings, major advertising revenue is coming into play. And, many companies love the prospect of advertising within an online publication because the rates are often less than half of the cost to grace the pages of traditional glossies (which can run $60,000 to $100,000 for a single page).

As online publications continur to raise the bar on quality and gain more advertising dollars in the process, the mainstays of the print world will have to tighten their budgets. After all, they are the ones that have to worry about rent, the cost of paper and printing, employing a roster of regular staff members and delivering the magazines to newsstands every month.

Here at Nemo, we were lucky to be graced by the VP of Business Development at Ning, Rachel Masters on Friday (read Dave Allen’s account here). What’s notable about Ning’s web-based platform is that it that allows you to create your own social network for anything and is fully customizable in almost every way imaginable.

One of the most beneficial elements of Ning I discovered is the option to use your own domain name. In essence, Ning can be built to function as your main website and many corporations and bands have leveraged this option with fantastic results. The band Good Charlotte uses Ning as their main site while Saturn has created an official gathering place for fans and employees of their line of cars.

Speaking of Saturn, they are a sponsor of the Bravo hit show, Project Runway. Now on its fifth cycle, this season features Portland alum Leanne Marshall of the chic Leanimal label. Though she first auditioned for the show in 2007, waiting out a year turned out to be to her advantage. She took the downtime to further develop her point of view and refine her designs and it shows in the crisp yet voluminous designs.

It’s true that Portland is a hotbed of creative talent. And, as the success of Ning and other social networking platforms have shown, connecting with like minded individuals needn’t be a chance encounter any longer. Whether you’re a fan of Saturn cars, Project Runway (or anything else for that matter), the odds are that a social network is only a click away.

This might work. Let’s not forget that women/sex always sells. I found the ad on one of my favorite spill-the-beans web sites, Hipster Runoff. Although why the thong needs to be organic I have no idea….

Our very own Nubby has an art show in Portland on July 2nd. I won’t embarrass her by rambling on about how great her work is, just go see for yourself if you’re any where near PDX.

“A new collection of graphic black + white artwork from Nubbytwiglet.com, the Black & White Graphic Insight series is an ode to my love of graphic design.”

Black & White Graphic Insight
Reception: July 2nd, 6-9 pm
Show runs July 2nd to August 3rd, 2008

@ Vino Paradiso
417 N.W. 10th
Portland, OR 97209
Gallery Paradiso website

A slumping economy has caught much of the apparel industry off guard and faltering under an increasingly volitile wave that can be attributed to the deflation of pricing on mainstream American labels, increased manufacturing costs and savvier consumers who are putting more thought into their purchases.

While the price of gas, utilities and groceries has skyrocketed, discretionary (non-essential) spending has been hit hard. “Fast fashion” retailers have fared okay so far in this lackluster market, but eventually, something has got to give.

Many of the staples in mainstream American apparel (Levi’s jeans, Lacoste polos) have actually decreased in price, even when adjusted for inflation due in part to the trend of moving manufacturing to countries with cheaper labor costs. But with the dollar losing steam, those rates have jumped. “As far as bottom costs go, we’re there. I think we’ve exploited all the countries on earth for people who really want to work for nothing,” said Bud Konheim, the chief executive office of Nicole Miller (NYTimes.com).

In many social circles, it is now hip to focus on individuality with regards to fashion and making thoughtful purchases. Instead of purchasing a gaudy, logo-driven article that is instantly recognizable (and quickly dated), people are leaning towards rare, more unique items. “Everything we pick up today has to pass a test,” said Candace Corlett, the president of WSL Strategic Retail, a consulting group. And, with so many options nowadays, who can blame consumers for taking their time to make a purchase? Unfortunately, the NY Times mentions that this is causing many fashion executives to feel the pressure on their bottom lines. Bud Konheim laments that “We as a business cannot afford to have a customer take a second look and ask, ‘Do I need this?’ That is the kiss of death. We’re finished, because nobody really needs anything we make as a total industry.”

Not everyone is faring badly in the tough American economy. Tom Wallace, President of trend forecasting company Label Networks lists a handful of brands including American Apparel, H&M and Uniqlo that are weathering the storm surprisingly well. This may be because of their ability to deliver consistently on-trend clothing in basic shapes at reasonable prices that are easily mixed in with what consumers already own.

To be fair, the recession isn’t hitting everyone. The International Herald Tribune says that “While American buyers are keeping an uncharacteristically low profile, with a beady eye on the miserable dollar exchange rate, other parts of the world are rejoicing in burgeoning markets and have no thought of recession.”

To cope with the lagging economy, luxury fashion houses are surviving the downturn by pushing accessories including jewelry, shoes and handbags more heavily. While shoppers might pass up high priced trendy clothing, they will still drop money on items they can use regularly.

As the U.S. recession deepens, it will be interesting to see what creative tactics brands will employ to stay relevant when consumers are more concerned with basic needs. With rock bottom prices already the norm in the nation’s collective consciousness, the sinking of many labels will be inevitable.

DNCHARD and LVHARD too, why not?

Here’s the soundtrack to all that - Sébastien Tellier - Sexual Sportswear