Straight to the point. If you sell lingerie you might as well sell lingerie. BlushBerlin.com Via Illegal Advertising.

For New York Fashion Week, at least half of the 200 labels that are showing have been around less than 10 years, with a quarter being less than five years old.

Though, the seemingly endless wave of fresh and brilliant new fashion talent may be slowing down. The economic downturn has many stores cutting fall orders by an average of 20% and smaller designers without financial backing are bracing for a turbulent year.

The New York Times reports that the fallout could be even more severe after Fashion Week has wrapped. Once the fall orders have been placed, it will be clear who survives (and who does not). The more stores that close, the more labels will fold.

In these trying times, designers are feeling the burden of small stores and boutiques who are taking twice or even three times as long to pay for their orders. Even worse, some stores that have gone out of business are leaving behind clothes that were ordered and produced, but never paid for.

To cut corners this year, designers are upping cost-cutting measures that include bypassing runway shows for more intimate showroom gatherings, using fabrics stockpiled from previous seasons and sharing pattern makers. The cuts and closures are mounting with no end in sight….

Kim Gordon via The NY Times

The original queen of indie cool and and member of both Sonic Youth and Free Kitten, Kim Gordon is back on the fashion scene with a new line called Mirror / Dash. The clothing will debut exclusively at Urban Outfitters on February 16th.

Of the line, Gordon says that “The challenge for us is doing something that’s not strictly Urban (Outfitters) in that we want it to appeal to someone a little older than a teenager or college student, but still have enough youth appeal to belong in the store.” Her focus is on creating solid basics that are timeless and flattering with an image of 60s era Francoise Hardy in mind.

No doubt that she’ll succeed since she’s paired up with friend Melinda Wansbrough and fashion veteran Jeffrey Monteiro, who has worked with Jane Mayle, Derek Lam and Sari Gueron.

The Gap’s New York City concept store on 5th Avenue is adding a pop up shop of merchandise including t-shirts in an array of Pantone shades. Additionally, Pantone office supplies, books and accessories will also be available. Hurry up though because the shop will only be open through February 18th!

Now that Sarah Palin’s designer-laden $150,000 wardrobe expenditure has been confirmed, the Rebuplican party has pushed into overdrive with defensive responses. In the past few days, the McCain camp affirmed that she did none of the shopping herself and that once the campaigning is over, all of the clothing will be donated to charity.

The reason this expenditure raises so much worry is because Palin was billed as a working mom of five with blue-collar roots. This sudden shift to designer labels, whether it was her decision or not, was called out by Joy Behar, a cohost on ABC’s The View. “I don’t think Joe the Plumber wears Manolo Blahniks,” she said.

These expenditures have the ability to further alienate Palin from the working-class Republicans she has courted, since many of them are suffering so much in the weakening economy. Whether this will cause a permanent rift between Palin and the legions of “Joe Six-Packs” remains to be seen.

Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the sister duo behind three-year-old high fashion label Rodarte are not your typical designers. Most noticeably, they don’t drape themselves in fancy designer goods (some of their dresses can cost upwards of $20,000.00). They instead stick with the basics, preferring gray Hanes t-shirts paired with jeans and sneakers. And, an existence in suburban California is preferred in lieu of the fashion mecca of New York City.

Their foray into the esteemed fashion world wasn’t done in the standard way, either. They didn’t secure initial backing for their label from a financier or a fashion conglomerate. Instead, Kate sold off her entire collection of rare records while Laura waitressed until recently. Both still live at home with their parents in Pasadena, California and remain humble despite establishing a critically acclaimed label in three years’ time.

Part of Mulleavys’ success can be attributed to an unwavering work ethic coupled with a wild imagination. The draw inspiration in unlikely places ranging from electronics stores to motorcycle rallies. Perhaps the most amazing part of their story is that neither went to school for fashion design (instead settling on degrees in art history and english). Their design skills are completely self-taught.

Currently, the Rodarte clothing line is sold in 42 stores worldwide and the Mulleavy sisters are regarded around the world as a fashion fairy-tale story. But, behind the scenes, they work relentlessly to innovate and push the envelope with layering and colors.

Some fashion critics bag Rodarte as being too art and concept driven instead of producing wearable clothing. I disagree. Their unwavering vision and dedication to design and innovation makes them stand tall among their peers. The concept of clothing as art should be embraced in this brave new world.

The current Rodarte collection can be viewed on Style.com.

Sports, technology, iconic brands and social networking all wrapped up in one package – Nike+ there are only winners here. The Nike+ Sports Kit has allowed athletes to share their data with friends and others who then compete online. This coming together of computer and running shoe technology between Apple, who’s iPod is a way to gather and upload the runner’s data (speed, distance, steps etc) and Nike who’s shoes include the Piezoelectric accelerometer for measuring the data.

And now a campaign to register runners globally to run a 10k and have every mile tracked whether they run, walk or jog and Nike will count those miles towards a charity of its choice. Time to get away from the monitor.

Babara Kiviat, a blogger for Time Mag’s The Curious Capitalist blog, has discovered two new things – Threadless and crowdsourcing. In a post yesterday entitled crowdsourcing worked on me she marveled at how Threadless works – it’s a user-driven business and its products are voted upon and ranked by its customers and/or site visitors. It is a highly successful and profitable business. Good job digging this up Barbara, Threadless has only been around since 2000. More details can be found at Skinny Corp the company that owns Threadless.

Meanwhile crowdsourcing is a term that was first coined by Jeff Howe in a June 2006 Wired magazine article and has been open to debate ever since. It’s worth reading the Wikipedia page about crowdsourcing where you will discover that Douglas Rushkoff and Wikipedia founder Jimmy Wales both have serious doubts about the term and its implications.

Nice to see Time keeping its finger on the popular culture pulse though.

Futuristic fashions ruled the Fall 2008 runways and if these offerings are any indication, it’s time to trade in your gas guzzling car for a lightweight spaceship.

Nike 6.0 at StudioNemo from Dave Allen on Vimeo.

Video of Josh Letchworth shooting 6.0 athletes Ben Horan, Nigel Sylvester and Trevor Jacob at StudioNemo.

Is it art? Is it life? Is it jeans? Advertising Agency FFL Paris, France and its Executive Creative Directors Fred & Farid have decide to take the “high art” road to advertising Wrangler Jeans. This means we can have arty photos that reek of misogyny – half-naked women who’ve apparently been murdered and thrown into lakes and rivers. Judging by all the negative remarks over at Ads Of The World’s web site the campaign isn’t going over so well.

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Studio Nemo is always hopping and it always gets the good stuff! This shoot was for Nike 6 with photographer Josh Letchworth behind the lens. The Nike 6.0 athletes were in town for Migration, a week of fun-filled activity and work all rolled into one. It’s like a giant meet and greet for all these kids from different areas of action sports.

In his article Rich Men in Uniform, Christopher Tennant details the looks of a handful of the world’s most powerful men. Interestingly enough, these billionaires seem to stick with the same dressed-down looks, no matter the occasion.

Apple’s Steve Jobs prefers the soccer dad classics of a mock turtleneck, Levi’s 501 jeans and white sneakers while grocery store kingpin Ron Burkle looks the part of a weekend warrior in his unchanging black Ralph Lauren polo, boot-cut jeans and classic black Chuck Taylors.

Perhaps the lesson to be learned is that when you’re a billionaire many times over, you have nothing to prove to anyone. And, you probably have bigger fish to fry than trying to decide which pair of handmade Italian loafers you should wear.

This might work. Let’s not forget that women/sex always sells. I found the ad on one of my favorite spill-the-beans web sites, Hipster Runoff. Although why the thong needs to be organic I have no idea….

A slumping economy has caught much of the apparel industry off guard and faltering under an increasingly volitile wave that can be attributed to the deflation of pricing on mainstream American labels, increased manufacturing costs and savvier consumers who are putting more thought into their purchases.

While the price of gas, utilities and groceries has skyrocketed, discretionary (non-essential) spending has been hit hard. “Fast fashion” retailers have fared okay so far in this lackluster market, but eventually, something has got to give.

Many of the staples in mainstream American apparel (Levi’s jeans, Lacoste polos) have actually decreased in price, even when adjusted for inflation due in part to the trend of moving manufacturing to countries with cheaper labor costs. But with the dollar losing steam, those rates have jumped. “As far as bottom costs go, we’re there. I think we’ve exploited all the countries on earth for people who really want to work for nothing,” said Bud Konheim, the chief executive office of Nicole Miller (NYTimes.com).

In many social circles, it is now hip to focus on individuality with regards to fashion and making thoughtful purchases. Instead of purchasing a gaudy, logo-driven article that is instantly recognizable (and quickly dated), people are leaning towards rare, more unique items. “Everything we pick up today has to pass a test,” said Candace Corlett, the president of WSL Strategic Retail, a consulting group. And, with so many options nowadays, who can blame consumers for taking their time to make a purchase? Unfortunately, the NY Times mentions that this is causing many fashion executives to feel the pressure on their bottom lines. Bud Konheim laments that “We as a business cannot afford to have a customer take a second look and ask, ‘Do I need this?’ That is the kiss of death. We’re finished, because nobody really needs anything we make as a total industry.”

Not everyone is faring badly in the tough American economy. Tom Wallace, President of trend forecasting company Label Networks lists a handful of brands including American Apparel, H&M and Uniqlo that are weathering the storm surprisingly well. This may be because of their ability to deliver consistently on-trend clothing in basic shapes at reasonable prices that are easily mixed in with what consumers already own.

To be fair, the recession isn’t hitting everyone. The International Herald Tribune says that “While American buyers are keeping an uncharacteristically low profile, with a beady eye on the miserable dollar exchange rate, other parts of the world are rejoicing in burgeoning markets and have no thought of recession.”

To cope with the lagging economy, luxury fashion houses are surviving the downturn by pushing accessories including jewelry, shoes and handbags more heavily. While shoppers might pass up high priced trendy clothing, they will still drop money on items they can use regularly.

As the U.S. recession deepens, it will be interesting to see what creative tactics brands will employ to stay relevant when consumers are more concerned with basic needs. With rock bottom prices already the norm in the nation’s collective consciousness, the sinking of many labels will be inevitable.

While many companies are simply paying lip service to environmentalism and the green movement, Patagonia has been a pioneer in green methods for years. Now they have delivered the world’s first recyclable nylon jacket, the Shelter Stone, which can be processed through their Common Threads Recycling Program.

Read more about the jacket and the technology behind it at Cool Hunting.

There is no business more maligned right now than the music business so it’s always a surprise to me to find that brands and their agencies haven’t been following the story. Where once every college students dream was to graduate and land that much-sought-after job in the mail room at Warner Bros Records, I would argue today that they are far more interested in joining Google or one of the myriad of new media start-ups rather than getting a job at, or being signed to, the now unsexy music business. In fact one of them is no doubt creating a new, new, new media company as I write.

And then along comes Macys’ American Rag brand campaign – from AdWeek under news, non-traditional – a series of documentary Webisodes will follow the lives of five young people who want to break into the music business. The series, “Ragged Road,” launches in the fall. WPP Group-owned MEC Entertainment developed the show, which will play on YouTube. Nancy Slavin, svp of marketing at Macy’s merchandising group, said this marks a first for the brand in “doing something wholly dedicated to a communications strategy on the Web.”

So Macys’ merchandising group has plunged head first into a web-only strategy. Brave. The clothing brand targets 18-24 year-old males and females and they have deduced that music is one of the passions of this demos primary targets – true, but – music is just one of the passions not the primary passion.

“There’s a lot of people who want to get into the music industry, but don’t know how to go about it. So, we said, let’s find five people who have a passion for the business and want to see what the career opportunities are and what different paths there are to get into the music industry,” said Chet Fenster, managing partner at MEC. – I believe that statement is rather insulting to kids today, it sounds like a justification for making the webisodes rather than reinforcing a need that came out of a focus group session with young people.

All five cast members will be wearing American Rag clothing. They will also be given the opportunity to shop for the brand as they travel across the country. For YouTube users interested in buying the clothes, the Macy’s site will serve as a shopping portal.

Cast members huh? I don’t understand why the agency didn’t find a cool young band that are actually working hard on the road but are struggling to make it. That would have been the truly authentic route to go. Driving a bunch of “cast members” around the country on a bus and giving them “the opportunity to shop for the brand” as they go doesn’t sound so compelling to me. A more authentic way into the music market was showcased recently by Dennys, the restaurant chain, with their Adopt-A-Band campaign where they picked up touring bands and gave them a helping hand in the way Kids like their fashion to be unique. of free meals and other opportunities. Bands and music fans are very nocturnal and always hungry at after hours so this made sense in many ways. Dressing up a “band” in American Rag outfits and giving them a bus to travel on is so fake. It doesn’t take into account the harsh reality for thousands of young touring bands in the USA (gas at $4 bucks a gallon anyone?) nor does it take into account young kids’ propensity for mashing up their fashion sense into something unique, their own style.

Well it seemed like a no-brainer, right? Wrong according to Urb Magazine’s blog.

“We didn’t do it together so it ends up being just this weird long song with sort of everybody with lots of their own personalities separate,” Santogold told Gigwise when revealing the track.

Urb says – Maybe it’s the lack of interaction between artists that keeps them from ever even talking about important issues, let alone record songs in an attempt (however vain) to make the world a better place. Or maybe it’s just that with the record industry on it’s ass, musicians have to learn to make due with the money they can earn when they can earn it, leaving less time for charity. Maybe it’s just easier to sellout when facing a ProTools file, rather than your actual peers in a recording studio.
Listen—we love Pharrell, Santogold, The Strokes AND Converse.But if Bob Dylan, Stevie Wonder, Bruce Springsteen, Hall & Oats and two dozen other A-listers could get into an actual recording studio together to make “We Are the World,” couldn’t today’s rockers try just a little bit harder?

A sad day for the folks at Nau. A message on their website today says that they have run out of capitalization and under the current credit climate can not raise any more investment.

Portland, Oregon’s Sameunderneath clothing company appears to fit the bill for a company that markets itself as sustainable and environmentally-friendly. In their own words from the ‘about’ section of their website:

Sameunderneath + Cashmere
Sameunderneath is proud to present its new line of cashmere garments. This luxurious, natural fiber is noted as providing light weight insulation without bulk. Appropriate for all climates, a high moisture climate allows insulation properties to change with the relative humidity in the air. The finest fibers are gathered from the underbelly, shoulder or neck of the Cashmere goat. Our cashmere is sourced from China where the hair is removed by hand with a comb. This aids in the goat’s natural shedding process.

Sameunderneath + Bamboo
Sameunderneath’s collection is produced with one of nature’s most sustainable resources, BAMBOO. This 100% biodegradable plant has the capacity to acclimate to the environment and continue to grow at a rate of 2 inches every hour! Bamboo’s innate antibacterial functions naturally wick moisture and prevent odor. Unlike other antibacterial additives, bamboo is also hypoallergenic. In addition to being plentiful, finished bamboo fabric is extremely soft so using bamboo fiber in all of our garments gives our clothing a comfortable, luxurious feel. This type of versatility cannot be found with cotton, making bamboo considerably more resourceful. Bamboo fiber is mankind’s contribution to the protection of natural resources, rare minerals and the consideration of global balance.

Gaspard Augé and Xavier de Rosnay aka Justice the French ‘band,’ if you can call two electronic DJ/Musicians a band, have hooked up with Surface to Air to create a clothing line. Justice are now the biggest band on Ed Banger Records and it appears that they are extending the brand…now you too can dress like a French DJ.

Surface to Air was born out of a beat up old loft in Union Square, NY in 1996. Its initial members began to work together as artists, and the space quickly transformed itself into a cultural breeding ground for other new and emerging artists to come and create and exhibit their work in an environment that supported them. This was the birthplace for a new underground movement. With the recognition of the talent that was being displayed by the various members, the interest of the public was piqued, and various characters began coming to the space as a place to witness the new avant-garde in its formation. From Harmony Korine to Donald Baechler to Alfredo Martinez, you never knew who was going to stop by and what would happen when they did. [From their website.]

Daft Punk – Human After All [Justice Remix] [MP3]

The Nike ad.

The man himself – Saul Williams

Go get your schwag!