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A Nemo blog. Dealing with uncommon cents.

Straight to the point. If you sell lingerie you might as well sell lingerie. BlushBerlin.com Via Illegal Advertising.

For New York Fashion Week, at least half of the 200 labels that are showing have been around less than 10 years, with a quarter being less than five years old.

Though, the seemingly endless wave of fresh and brilliant new fashion talent may be slowing down. The economic downturn has many stores cutting fall orders by an average of 20% and smaller designers without financial backing are bracing for a turbulent year.

The New York Times reports that the fallout could be even more severe after Fashion Week has wrapped. Once the fall orders have been placed, it will be clear who survives (and who does not). The more stores that close, the more labels will fold.

In these trying times, designers are feeling the burden of small stores and boutiques who are taking twice or even three times as long to pay for their orders. Even worse, some stores that have gone out of business are leaving behind clothes that were ordered and produced, but never paid for.

To cut corners this year, designers are upping cost-cutting measures that include bypassing runway shows for more intimate showroom gatherings, using fabrics stockpiled from previous seasons and sharing pattern makers. The cuts and closures are mounting with no end in sight….

Kim Gordon via The NY Times

The original queen of indie cool and and member of both Sonic Youth and Free Kitten, Kim Gordon is back on the fashion scene with a new line called Mirror / Dash. The clothing will debut exclusively at Urban Outfitters on February 16th.

Of the line, Gordon says that “The challenge for us is doing something that’s not strictly Urban (Outfitters) in that we want it to appeal to someone a little older than a teenager or college student, but still have enough youth appeal to belong in the store.” Her focus is on creating solid basics that are timeless and flattering with an image of 60s era Francoise Hardy in mind.

No doubt that she’ll succeed since she’s paired up with friend Melinda Wansbrough and fashion veteran Jeffrey Monteiro, who has worked with Jane Mayle, Derek Lam and Sari Gueron.

The Gap’s New York City concept store on 5th Avenue is adding a pop up shop of merchandise including t-shirts in an array of Pantone shades. Additionally, Pantone office supplies, books and accessories will also be available. Hurry up though because the shop will only be open through February 18th!

Now that Sarah Palin’s designer-laden $150,000 wardrobe expenditure has been confirmed, the Rebuplican party has pushed into overdrive with defensive responses. In the past few days, the McCain camp affirmed that she did none of the shopping herself and that once the campaigning is over, all of the clothing will be donated to charity.

The reason this expenditure raises so much worry is because Palin was billed as a working mom of five with blue-collar roots. This sudden shift to designer labels, whether it was her decision or not, was called out by Joy Behar, a cohost on ABC’s The View. “I don’t think Joe the Plumber wears Manolo Blahniks,” she said.

These expenditures have the ability to further alienate Palin from the working-class Republicans she has courted, since many of them are suffering so much in the weakening economy. Whether this will cause a permanent rift between Palin and the legions of “Joe Six-Packs” remains to be seen.

Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the sister duo behind three-year-old high fashion label Rodarte are not your typical designers. Most noticeably, they don’t drape themselves in fancy designer goods (some of their dresses can cost upwards of $20,000.00). They instead stick with the basics, preferring gray Hanes t-shirts paired with jeans and sneakers. And, an existence in suburban California is preferred in lieu of the fashion mecca of New York City.

Their foray into the esteemed fashion world wasn’t done in the standard way, either. They didn’t secure initial backing for their label from a financier or a fashion conglomerate. Instead, Kate sold off her entire collection of rare records while Laura waitressed until recently. Both still live at home with their parents in Pasadena, California and remain humble despite establishing a critically acclaimed label in three years’ time.

Part of Mulleavys’ success can be attributed to an unwavering work ethic coupled with a wild imagination. The draw inspiration in unlikely places ranging from electronics stores to motorcycle rallies. Perhaps the most amazing part of their story is that neither went to school for fashion design (instead settling on degrees in art history and english). Their design skills are completely self-taught.

Currently, the Rodarte clothing line is sold in 42 stores worldwide and the Mulleavy sisters are regarded around the world as a fashion fairy-tale story. But, behind the scenes, they work relentlessly to innovate and push the envelope with layering and colors.

Some fashion critics bag Rodarte as being too art and concept driven instead of producing wearable clothing. I disagree. Their unwavering vision and dedication to design and innovation makes them stand tall among their peers. The concept of clothing as art should be embraced in this brave new world.

The current Rodarte collection can be viewed on Style.com.