Straight to the point. If you sell lingerie you might as well sell lingerie. BlushBerlin.com Via Illegal Advertising.

Conspicuous consumption has drifted away as consumers shift their incomes to necessities in these dreary economic times. Overall, U.S. retailers are reporting that January 2009 sales are down 9.5% when compared with the same period the year before.

All the same, it seems that we haven’t completely given up on shopping altogether. Forbes.com is reporting that there are 10 key stores that Americans can’t live without.

Notably, the list includes Urban Outfitters. For the most part, 20-something hipsters will find a way to shop no matter what and Urban has a unique edge by not mimicking every other mall chain store. Each location boasts a product mix that is often tailored towards regional trends. Sales have increased 22.8% over the last year.

On the luxury front, Hermes (where handbags can retail for upwards of $5,000) isn’t for everyone’s budget. Though to Hermes credit, it is known for quality, timeless designs. Many who can afford the price points would rather invest in one quality piece that will last for years instead of a handful of lower-priced, trendier items from brands like Coach (which is doing terribly).

On the electronics front, Amazon.com has held up well. The massive selection, free shipping and low prices have all contributed to its success. Amazon has prospered partly because they were smart in the beginning and built a sense of community with customer reviews and pushed the Site Recommendation Tool (which recommends items based on customer’s past purchases).

Other flourishing retailers include American Apparel (now the largest apparel manufacturer in the U.S.), Walmart and J. Crew (thanks to the free publicity via the Obamas).

The secret to these retailer’s continuing success relies heavily on differentiation, whether it be through service, product offerings, price points or ease of use. Additionally, many (namely Urban, American Apparel and Hermes) continue to offer items that consumers can’t get at every other chain store. Getting consumers to part with their hard earned money right now means offering a unique experience that they can’t get anywhere else.

For New York Fashion Week, at least half of the 200 labels that are showing have been around less than 10 years, with a quarter being less than five years old.

Though, the seemingly endless wave of fresh and brilliant new fashion talent may be slowing down. The economic downturn has many stores cutting fall orders by an average of 20% and smaller designers without financial backing are bracing for a turbulent year.

The New York Times reports that the fallout could be even more severe after Fashion Week has wrapped. Once the fall orders have been placed, it will be clear who survives (and who does not). The more stores that close, the more labels will fold.

In these trying times, designers are feeling the burden of small stores and boutiques who are taking twice or even three times as long to pay for their orders. Even worse, some stores that have gone out of business are leaving behind clothes that were ordered and produced, but never paid for.

To cut corners this year, designers are upping cost-cutting measures that include bypassing runway shows for more intimate showroom gatherings, using fabrics stockpiled from previous seasons and sharing pattern makers. The cuts and closures are mounting with no end in sight….

Kim Gordon via The NY Times

The original queen of indie cool and and member of both Sonic Youth and Free Kitten, Kim Gordon is back on the fashion scene with a new line called Mirror / Dash. The clothing will debut exclusively at Urban Outfitters on February 16th.

Of the line, Gordon says that “The challenge for us is doing something that’s not strictly Urban (Outfitters) in that we want it to appeal to someone a little older than a teenager or college student, but still have enough youth appeal to belong in the store.” Her focus is on creating solid basics that are timeless and flattering with an image of 60s era Francoise Hardy in mind.

No doubt that she’ll succeed since she’s paired up with friend Melinda Wansbrough and fashion veteran Jeffrey Monteiro, who has worked with Jane Mayle, Derek Lam and Sari Gueron.

Photo courtesy of The NY Times

According to the NY Times, even luxury goods are not exempt from the faltering economy. High-end Fifth Avenue department stores including Bergdorf Goodman are luring in shoppers with enticingly deep discounts. Customers are now digging though designer handbags on tables with prices slashed upwards of 40%. The New Yorker’s Patricia Marx has even remarked that “Sixty percent off is the new black.”

Surprisingly, established luxury retailer Saks dug even deeper than its competitors, dropping the prices of much of its fall fashion up to 70 percent. Customers were so shocked that they assumed that many of the price tags were misprints.

A just released MasterCard Advisors report lists luxury goods sales as being of nearly 25% off this year when compared with last. The era revolving around the endless drive towards high-end consumption appears to be drying up fast.

The NY Times raises the question that everyone is pondering: With such deep discounts on luxury goods, consumers are left wondering what the astronomical mark-ups were in the past. And, now that they’ve witnessed these bargain basement prices, will they be willing to pay full price ever again?

In the current economic state, women who barely thought twice about charging a $1,200 designer purse are now skipping these luxuries and settling for their lower-priced counterparts. According to the NY Times, the movement of purchasing thriftier fashions has been coined recession chic. Women like price-conscious shopper Mary Hall have added a spin on the term and proudly declare themselves recessionistas. Hall has even founded the Recessionista blog, cataloging all the smart buys she comes across.

While the term ‘recession’ is considered unfavorable, embracing recessionista instead is seen as a way to embrace the economic downturn (and to keep on shopping in the process.) Though women are throwing around recessionista in casual banter, lexiconographer Grant Barret is warning us that “it’s kind of permitting consumers to have justification for their spending habits.” In a way, he’s reminding us that there’s something very off-putting about shopping for piles of clothing we don’t need in a shaky economy. Writer Lauren Sandler asks “Do women in today’s economy want to confront pages of $1,000 shoes when they are struggling to pay the rent?” Yet, without shopping, many designers and retailers will falter.

In the meantime, The NY Times reminds us that as catchy as recessionista seems, if the economy worsens, it may be replaced with…depressionista.

The retail market of skateboarding is saturated with a dizzying array of shoe brands releasing signature models featuring athlete names. The athlete benefits from the deals through both sponsorship and cash payment. In return, the brand can earn a tidy sum from sales fueled by the buzz of a hot athlete name. But, what happens to a design once the athlete and sponsor decide to part ways?

The situation can be sticky because ownership differs with each brand. Etnies and its sub brands retain full rights when an athlete leaves, but some brands like Osiris will reissue a shoe without the athlete’s imprint. Others throw caution to the wind and keep an original design on the market.

Often, it’s accepted that the ownership of a model lies with whomever was responsible for the initial design and concept. If the athlete develops the design, they usually have rights to the shoe when they switch sponsors. But, if they initially did little more than picking the style out of a lineup of options and had their name stamped on it, the sponsor will usually retain the rights.

Kelly Bird of Lakai relates that “you can patent or trademark technology, but you can’t really do that with design.” Because of this, it’s completely possible that multiple brands can output similar models. If the demand and money are there, it’s likely to happen.

How do you think this gray area should be defined? Would you be more likely to side with the athlete or manufacturer if contention arises?

Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the sister duo behind three-year-old high fashion label Rodarte are not your typical designers. Most noticeably, they don’t drape themselves in fancy designer goods (some of their dresses can cost upwards of $20,000.00). They instead stick with the basics, preferring gray Hanes t-shirts paired with jeans and sneakers. And, an existence in suburban California is preferred in lieu of the fashion mecca of New York City.

Their foray into the esteemed fashion world wasn’t done in the standard way, either. They didn’t secure initial backing for their label from a financier or a fashion conglomerate. Instead, Kate sold off her entire collection of rare records while Laura waitressed until recently. Both still live at home with their parents in Pasadena, California and remain humble despite establishing a critically acclaimed label in three years’ time.

Part of Mulleavys’ success can be attributed to an unwavering work ethic coupled with a wild imagination. The draw inspiration in unlikely places ranging from electronics stores to motorcycle rallies. Perhaps the most amazing part of their story is that neither went to school for fashion design (instead settling on degrees in art history and english). Their design skills are completely self-taught.

Currently, the Rodarte clothing line is sold in 42 stores worldwide and the Mulleavy sisters are regarded around the world as a fashion fairy-tale story. But, behind the scenes, they work relentlessly to innovate and push the envelope with layering and colors.

Some fashion critics bag Rodarte as being too art and concept driven instead of producing wearable clothing. I disagree. Their unwavering vision and dedication to design and innovation makes them stand tall among their peers. The concept of clothing as art should be embraced in this brave new world.

The current Rodarte collection can be viewed on Style.com.

Sports, technology, iconic brands and social networking all wrapped up in one package – Nike+ there are only winners here. The Nike+ Sports Kit has allowed athletes to share their data with friends and others who then compete online. This coming together of computer and running shoe technology between Apple, who’s iPod is a way to gather and upload the runner’s data (speed, distance, steps etc) and Nike who’s shoes include the Piezoelectric accelerometer for measuring the data.

And now a campaign to register runners globally to run a 10k and have every mile tracked whether they run, walk or jog and Nike will count those miles towards a charity of its choice. Time to get away from the monitor.

Images courtesy of Style.com

For Fall 2008 ready-to-wear, designers are pulling out all the stops when it comes to shoes. Some are so beyond what would even be considered footwear on this planet (and that’s part of the fun). Fashion and the process of experimentation that goes along with it shouldn’t be taken too seriously. But, I have one question: can you actually walk in these sculptural masterpieces?

Mark Lewman our CD at Nemo who works on the Nike 6.0 brand came up with the idea of freezing the 6.0 shoes into blocks of ice, so Nike found a rad ice sculptor guy to come out and carve an 8 ft tall Mogan Mid. See below.

Then the kids had at ‘em to see who could be the fastest to thaw out the shoes and win a free pair.

More pics here.

Stop 3 of the AST Dew Tour is in Portland this weekend. And if you are 21+ you can come to the AST After Party – click here for info and to RSVP.

Teens of generations past rifled through their parent’s closets for remnants to add to their latest and greatest looks. Perhaps their friends would be in on the action, but that was the end of it. Now, they can pile on the relics of bygone eras, snap some digital photos and blog about it to the entire world.

Three teens named Stephanie, Tavi and Arabelle are featured in the brand new issue of the New York Time’s T Magazine in an article in which they interpret high fashion styles with only their parent’s clothes mixed with inexpensive basics.

Some readers were not impressed, calling these girl’s looks unoriginal and painting them as greedy consumers. I disagree with the negative reactions. These teens are still growing into their own styles and personalities and are brave enough to share their experiences with the world. Instead of sitting in front of a TV, they’re writing and publishing articles on topics that they’re passionate about and learning the valuable skills of using a digital camera, self-publishing and social networking in the process. By running popular style blogs, they could be setting themselves up for future internships and careers in the worlds of fashion and magazines.

Teens that are staying out of trouble and producing content that makes them proud should be commended.

Babara Kiviat, a blogger for Time Mag’s The Curious Capitalist blog, has discovered two new things – Threadless and crowdsourcing. In a post yesterday entitled crowdsourcing worked on me she marveled at how Threadless works – it’s a user-driven business and its products are voted upon and ranked by its customers and/or site visitors. It is a highly successful and profitable business. Good job digging this up Barbara, Threadless has only been around since 2000. More details can be found at Skinny Corp the company that owns Threadless.

Meanwhile crowdsourcing is a term that was first coined by Jeff Howe in a June 2006 Wired magazine article and has been open to debate ever since. It’s worth reading the Wikipedia page about crowdsourcing where you will discover that Douglas Rushkoff and Wikipedia founder Jimmy Wales both have serious doubts about the term and its implications.

Nice to see Time keeping its finger on the popular culture pulse though.

Futuristic fashions ruled the Fall 2008 runways and if these offerings are any indication, it’s time to trade in your gas guzzling car for a lightweight spaceship.

Using the Beijing Olympics as a showcase, the big names in the sneaker world including Nike, Adidas, Puma, Asics and Reebok have developed dozens of new designs to debut with the hopes of hooking the rapidly expanding Chinese middle class (along with legions of ’sneaker freaks’ worldwide) on their offerings.

Strategy-wise, these leading brands are focusing on creating shoes for sports that are popular in Asia like badminton, rowing, fencing and a style of martial arts known as washu. Extra style points are being dished out to Nike’s new equestrian boot that’s bound to leap from the world of horseback riding and onto the street:

Nike’s new basketball shoe (above) is crafted in the trademark Chinese red and yellow and uses a system called flywire to replace thick materials while creating a sort of bridge suspension to hold the foot in place.

The technology in these newly developed offerings are truly groundbreaking and though the stylings are a bit futuristic at first glance, they’re sure to resonate with a wide variety of Olymics sports fans.

Nike 6.0 at StudioNemo from Dave Allen on Vimeo.

Video of Josh Letchworth shooting 6.0 athletes Ben Horan, Nigel Sylvester and Trevor Jacob at StudioNemo.

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Studio Nemo is always hopping and it always gets the good stuff! This shoot was for Nike 6 with photographer Josh Letchworth behind the lens. The Nike 6.0 athletes were in town for Migration, a week of fun-filled activity and work all rolled into one. It’s like a giant meet and greet for all these kids from different areas of action sports.

This might work. Let’s not forget that women/sex always sells. I found the ad on one of my favorite spill-the-beans web sites, Hipster Runoff. Although why the thong needs to be organic I have no idea….

The news today is that Proctor and Gamble is getting into the music business. Just as Starbucks is going in the opposite direction and exiting the CD sales business, more brands are jumping in to fill the void left by the collapse of the CD retail store business. Music sales in the UK were once again down 11% over the same period in 2007.

For the labels, attention from product companies is a good thing. I see the logic here. CD sales are plummeting and online sales are not filling the void, a company comes along that wants to license the record label’s music to promote a brand and it appears that a match has been made in heaven. Rhianna had a lot of success this way working with Totes Isotoner to help them improve sales of umbrella’s. Umbrella was the title of her hit song, I wrote about her arrangement with Totes here.

Proctor and Gamble, and other companies using music to promote their brands, are jumping in deeper though:

“At a time when online file-sharing is rampant, record stores are closing and consumers are buying singles instead of albums, getting into the music business might seem like running into a burning building. But as record labels struggle to adjust to a harsh new digital reality, other companies are stepping up their involvement in music, going far beyond standard endorsement contracts and the use of songs in commercials. These companies — like Procter & Gamble, Red Bull and Nike — are stepping outside of their core businesses to promote, finance and even distribute music themselves.”

I believe all of this extra-curricular activity by these brands may pay off for them in the long term. The music fan has shown her willingness to buy music online although only singles, not albums. Album sales are no longer the preferred format. The labels created this nightmare for themselves when they scrapped the single as a sales format. They blamed their losses on file-sharing online but they ignored their own disastrous moves in the market place. They weren’t listening to their customers. And then they began to sue them. Even Apple can’t persuade music fans to buy albums.

There is a lesson here though and it is one that Starbucks learned the hard way. Brand and product companies should not get too deep into the music sales business. The P&G deal with Def Jam may work well as it is a joint venture where presumably each side does what they do best – Def Jam runs the label side, P&G markets its product with Def Jam music and pays for everything.

I discussed the following issue in a recent post: To the music fan music becomes cheapened by being used as a commodity to sell products. The artists behind the music have their celebrity enhanced and they then go on to use their brand to sell more products. Music fans understand that music is now a commodity and refuse to pay for it. The music industry and the artists both complain that no one pays for music and to account for the decline in sales accuse us of stealing it online. The commodity is over-priced; no one is buying it.

Unless you are a brand with a product to sell.

Today I became the lucky winner of a DB Clay Feather wallet. The fine people from DB Clay came by the Nemo Design offices and dropped off four wallets and I was able to claim mine, the one pictured above. To paraphrase the old T-shirt adage, never under-estimate the power of a free wallet. I’m now a customer for life.

A slumping economy has caught much of the apparel industry off guard and faltering under an increasingly volitile wave that can be attributed to the deflation of pricing on mainstream American labels, increased manufacturing costs and savvier consumers who are putting more thought into their purchases.

While the price of gas, utilities and groceries has skyrocketed, discretionary (non-essential) spending has been hit hard. “Fast fashion” retailers have fared okay so far in this lackluster market, but eventually, something has got to give.

Many of the staples in mainstream American apparel (Levi’s jeans, Lacoste polos) have actually decreased in price, even when adjusted for inflation due in part to the trend of moving manufacturing to countries with cheaper labor costs. But with the dollar losing steam, those rates have jumped. “As far as bottom costs go, we’re there. I think we’ve exploited all the countries on earth for people who really want to work for nothing,” said Bud Konheim, the chief executive office of Nicole Miller (NYTimes.com).

In many social circles, it is now hip to focus on individuality with regards to fashion and making thoughtful purchases. Instead of purchasing a gaudy, logo-driven article that is instantly recognizable (and quickly dated), people are leaning towards rare, more unique items. “Everything we pick up today has to pass a test,” said Candace Corlett, the president of WSL Strategic Retail, a consulting group. And, with so many options nowadays, who can blame consumers for taking their time to make a purchase? Unfortunately, the NY Times mentions that this is causing many fashion executives to feel the pressure on their bottom lines. Bud Konheim laments that “We as a business cannot afford to have a customer take a second look and ask, ‘Do I need this?’ That is the kiss of death. We’re finished, because nobody really needs anything we make as a total industry.”

Not everyone is faring badly in the tough American economy. Tom Wallace, President of trend forecasting company Label Networks lists a handful of brands including American Apparel, H&M and Uniqlo that are weathering the storm surprisingly well. This may be because of their ability to deliver consistently on-trend clothing in basic shapes at reasonable prices that are easily mixed in with what consumers already own.

To be fair, the recession isn’t hitting everyone. The International Herald Tribune says that “While American buyers are keeping an uncharacteristically low profile, with a beady eye on the miserable dollar exchange rate, other parts of the world are rejoicing in burgeoning markets and have no thought of recession.”

To cope with the lagging economy, luxury fashion houses are surviving the downturn by pushing accessories including jewelry, shoes and handbags more heavily. While shoppers might pass up high priced trendy clothing, they will still drop money on items they can use regularly.

As the U.S. recession deepens, it will be interesting to see what creative tactics brands will employ to stay relevant when consumers are more concerned with basic needs. With rock bottom prices already the norm in the nation’s collective consciousness, the sinking of many labels will be inevitable.

After reading Nubby’s post on The Power of Celebrities as Brands I came across a post on Sasha Frere-Jones’ New Yorker blog where he talks about Jeff Leeds, a music reporter for the New York Times, who was recently laid off. Frere-Jones has entered into an email discussion with Leeds where they discuss music writing and criticism today:

LEEDS: I’m not sure that it’s so easy anymore to write about the art without acknowledging the commerce or vice versa. It’s also just more fun, as a writer, to inhabit the middle. There is a case to be made that the cultural role and the experience of music now are just inextricably tied to commerce and the new ways that artists and listeners perceive each other. Even as a fan, isn’t your relationship with music and artists at least somewhat different depending on whether you subscribe to e-music, share a station with a friend on Pandora, or watch someone’s show on your cell phone? Is U2 still the same U2 if they’re in an iPod ad? I think the message and the medium are much more intertwined than they were ten years ago.

FRERE-JONES: This behavior parallels the world of online friendships, at least in form. People who could just as easily call or e-mail each other decide to make conversations public through blogs or Twitter or MySpace comments. The platform chosen for each message changes the effect of the words, who can read them, and how long they will hang in the air. (The Web is creating a multiple-exposure version of memory: words remain, reappearing over and over, even if nothing more than cocktail chat. “Nice dress!” echoes in the hall of mirrored servers. An LOL is not an LOL is not an LOL.)

LEEDS: I think that sort of transparency, where we’re all declaring our positions publicly, is here to stay. In music it means that all these little tribes and congregations of fans can mobilize in really powerful ways. And that in turn is contributing so much to the changes you see in the relationship between the artists and the machinery, the industry underneath and around them. It’s a crucial space to watch. I always think of music as Patient Zero in all the disorder that is changing everything in entertainment and media, including, by the way, newspapers. It’s worth paying close attention.

Leeds and Frere-Jones are suggesting here that transparency, aided and abetted through the use of social media, affects the way that music fans “perceive” the artists and the music industry. With its machinations no longer hidden from them, fans interact differently with their favorite musicians. As musical artists use their celebrity to sell products one area where this perception could become dangerous is over-exposure.

In an article in the New York Times, Nothing Sells Like Celebrity, the story of the teenage R&B pop star, Rhianna, her song ‘Umbrella’ and her deal with the umbrella manufacturer, Totes Isotoner, is typical of the arrangements made between a celebrity’s brand and a product these days:

“Rihanna and her representatives wanted Totes to do more, however, than merely use her [song] to peddle a product. They wanted Totes to create customized umbrellas featuring sparkly fabrics and glittery charms on the handles — all recommended by the emerging star and her team. Totes also guaranteed the singer a percentage of the sales of the umbrellas”.

Apparently the arrangement between the star and umbrella company was successful but what does this say about the future of music as an art form? As Leeds says – “I’m not sure that it’s so easy anymore to write about the art without acknowledging the commerce or vice versa.” To paraphrase him – Is Rhianna still the same Rhianna if she’s in an umbrella ad? Do her fans blur the line between seeing her in a video on MTV and then seeing her in a Totes ad?

Sales of hip hop and R&B music have dropped off precipitously lately and many have blamed the over commercialization of the music and its ties to products; too much bling in other words. Does hearing a song repeatedly through an advertisement cheapen the artist and the song? And then in turn, does social media – Facebook, Twitter etc, allow these “little tribes” as Leeds calls them, share the idea that ‘too much exposure is quite enough thanks, we’re moving on to the next artist’…become gospel? I think so. Leeds and Frere-Jones are on to something.

As these all important “little tribes” spin off into tightly-knit social groups online, all of which will independently coalesce around their favorite subjects, be it knitting, hang gliding, musicians, movies, actors et al – the large social media sites and networks will fracture into millions of laser-precise spin-offs. As Frere-Jones says, the words and messages of these “little tribes” become “echoes in the hall of mirrored servers.” As he also says, the web and social media are “creating a multiple-exposure version of memory,” – is that U2 on MTV or U2 in an iPod ad, I may ask myself?

Beware all marketers who intend to try and reach these ever-shifting, nomadic, online groups; as I said in a prior post – the people who are members of these groups don’t exist, only their personas do.

The music industry should be careful too. Music becomes cheapened by being used as a commodity to sell products. The artists behind the music have their celebrity enhanced and they then go on to use their brand to sell more products. Music fans understand that music is now a commodity and refuse to pay for it. The music industry and the artists both complain that no one pays for music and to account for the decline in sales accuse us of stealing it online. The commodity is over-priced; no one is buying it.

While many companies are simply paying lip service to environmentalism and the green movement, Patagonia has been a pioneer in green methods for years. Now they have delivered the world’s first recyclable nylon jacket, the Shelter Stone, which can be processed through their Common Threads Recycling Program.

Read more about the jacket and the technology behind it at Cool Hunting.

There is no business more maligned right now than the music business so it’s always a surprise to me to find that brands and their agencies haven’t been following the story. Where once every college students dream was to graduate and land that much-sought-after job in the mail room at Warner Bros Records, I would argue today that they are far more interested in joining Google or one of the myriad of new media start-ups rather than getting a job at, or being signed to, the now unsexy music business. In fact one of them is no doubt creating a new, new, new media company as I write.

And then along comes Macys’ American Rag brand campaign – from AdWeek under news, non-traditional – a series of documentary Webisodes will follow the lives of five young people who want to break into the music business. The series, “Ragged Road,” launches in the fall. WPP Group-owned MEC Entertainment developed the show, which will play on YouTube. Nancy Slavin, svp of marketing at Macy’s merchandising group, said this marks a first for the brand in “doing something wholly dedicated to a communications strategy on the Web.”

So Macys’ merchandising group has plunged head first into a web-only strategy. Brave. The clothing brand targets 18-24 year-old males and females and they have deduced that music is one of the passions of this demos primary targets – true, but – music is just one of the passions not the primary passion.

“There’s a lot of people who want to get into the music industry, but don’t know how to go about it. So, we said, let’s find five people who have a passion for the business and want to see what the career opportunities are and what different paths there are to get into the music industry,” said Chet Fenster, managing partner at MEC. – I believe that statement is rather insulting to kids today, it sounds like a justification for making the webisodes rather than reinforcing a need that came out of a focus group session with young people.

All five cast members will be wearing American Rag clothing. They will also be given the opportunity to shop for the brand as they travel across the country. For YouTube users interested in buying the clothes, the Macy’s site will serve as a shopping portal.

Cast members huh? I don’t understand why the agency didn’t find a cool young band that are actually working hard on the road but are struggling to make it. That would have been the truly authentic route to go. Driving a bunch of “cast members” around the country on a bus and giving them “the opportunity to shop for the brand” as they go doesn’t sound so compelling to me. A more authentic way into the music market was showcased recently by Dennys, the restaurant chain, with their Adopt-A-Band campaign where they picked up touring bands and gave them a helping hand in the way Kids like their fashion to be unique. of free meals and other opportunities. Bands and music fans are very nocturnal and always hungry at after hours so this made sense in many ways. Dressing up a “band” in American Rag outfits and giving them a bus to travel on is so fake. It doesn’t take into account the harsh reality for thousands of young touring bands in the USA (gas at $4 bucks a gallon anyone?) nor does it take into account young kids’ propensity for mashing up their fashion sense into something unique, their own style.

K-Mart has just announced that it will be releasing a new collection of action sports-inspired apparel under an unimaginative in-house brand name called “Boarding.” This is taking place on the heels of similar retailers’ forays into the same market including Walmart, Target, and Steve and Berry’s. Unfortunately, it is a telling sign that the terms action sports and extreme sports (which were once a hallmark of announcing one’s place in the counterculture) have finally lost the last remainder of their street-cred.

When the term extreme sports first surfaced in the late 80s, the market was geared more towards adult sports. As Baby Boomers and Generation X have aged, the marketing efforts have shifted towards Generation Y with ads focusing on their clothing, music and even soft drink preferences. In the meantime, as more mainstream sponsors have infiltrated the market (including Mountain Dew, Taco Bell and the U.S. Navy) the edginess of being associated with the extreme sports movement has dramatically dulled.

Youth-centric culture is constantly pushing boundaries and influencing larger societal movements, but in time, the ‘new thing’ loses its charm when every mainstream outlet markets the hell out of it and drives it into the ground. What’s interesting about this phenomenon is that many of today’s trend-setters eventually grow up and fill the marketing positions at top-tier ad agencies whose sole job is to blanket the mainstream with their clients’ take on the next social rebellion.

Just as the hippies of the 60s grew up, tuned in and transformed into yuppies during the 80s, action sports fanatics will eventually mature. Their gashes will heal and though you’ll still be able to spot them when their dress shirt cuff rises to reveal a smattering of tattoos, the gaggle of babies in trendy t-shirts and the new home tucked into a safe suburb is bound to give them away.

As the term action sports continues to lose its coolness, it’s natural to wonder what the next rebellion will be. Youth by nature is often tangled in rebellion and you can’t rebel any longer when the remnants of your scene are splashed everywhere, including K-Mart.

Well it seemed like a no-brainer, right? Wrong according to Urb Magazine’s blog.

“We didn’t do it together so it ends up being just this weird long song with sort of everybody with lots of their own personalities separate,” Santogold told Gigwise when revealing the track.

Urb says – Maybe it’s the lack of interaction between artists that keeps them from ever even talking about important issues, let alone record songs in an attempt (however vain) to make the world a better place. Or maybe it’s just that with the record industry on it’s ass, musicians have to learn to make due with the money they can earn when they can earn it, leaving less time for charity. Maybe it’s just easier to sellout when facing a ProTools file, rather than your actual peers in a recording studio.
Listen—we love Pharrell, Santogold, The Strokes AND Converse.But if Bob Dylan, Stevie Wonder, Bruce Springsteen, Hall & Oats and two dozen other A-listers could get into an actual recording studio together to make “We Are the World,” couldn’t today’s rockers try just a little bit harder?

A sad day for the folks at Nau. A message on their website today says that they have run out of capitalization and under the current credit climate can not raise any more investment.

Find more videos like this on AdGabber

72andSunny enrolled Mr Madonna, Guy Ritchie to helm the spot for Nike’s Arsenal footy team, The Next Level. One question – football or soccer?

Portland, Oregon’s Sameunderneath clothing company appears to fit the bill for a company that markets itself as sustainable and environmentally-friendly. In their own words from the ‘about’ section of their website:

Sameunderneath + Cashmere
Sameunderneath is proud to present its new line of cashmere garments. This luxurious, natural fiber is noted as providing light weight insulation without bulk. Appropriate for all climates, a high moisture climate allows insulation properties to change with the relative humidity in the air. The finest fibers are gathered from the underbelly, shoulder or neck of the Cashmere goat. Our cashmere is sourced from China where the hair is removed by hand with a comb. This aids in the goat’s natural shedding process.

Sameunderneath + Bamboo
Sameunderneath’s collection is produced with one of nature’s most sustainable resources, BAMBOO. This 100% biodegradable plant has the capacity to acclimate to the environment and continue to grow at a rate of 2 inches every hour! Bamboo’s innate antibacterial functions naturally wick moisture and prevent odor. Unlike other antibacterial additives, bamboo is also hypoallergenic. In addition to being plentiful, finished bamboo fabric is extremely soft so using bamboo fiber in all of our garments gives our clothing a comfortable, luxurious feel. This type of versatility cannot be found with cotton, making bamboo considerably more resourceful. Bamboo fiber is mankind’s contribution to the protection of natural resources, rare minerals and the consideration of global balance.

Gaspard Augé and Xavier de Rosnay aka Justice the French ‘band,’ if you can call two electronic DJ/Musicians a band, have hooked up with Surface to Air to create a clothing line. Justice are now the biggest band on Ed Banger Records and it appears that they are extending the brand…now you too can dress like a French DJ.

Surface to Air was born out of a beat up old loft in Union Square, NY in 1996. Its initial members began to work together as artists, and the space quickly transformed itself into a cultural breeding ground for other new and emerging artists to come and create and exhibit their work in an environment that supported them. This was the birthplace for a new underground movement. With the recognition of the talent that was being displayed by the various members, the interest of the public was piqued, and various characters began coming to the space as a place to witness the new avant-garde in its formation. From Harmony Korine to Donald Baechler to Alfredo Martinez, you never knew who was going to stop by and what would happen when they did. [From their website.]

Daft Punk – Human After All [Justice Remix] [MP3]

I was checking the latest research from my friend Kathleen Gasperini at Label Networks and came across this ALIFE post. Rob and Amell have used their genius to build a killer retail operation, like many confident brands the alure of making iconic shoes would be a beautiful piece to add to the legend of ALIFE. However, with a bazillion shoe brands out there, do we really need another? The entrepreneurial spirt is awesome, but why not a new ’something else?’ The established brands are always searching for new stories to wrap their SKUs. 

Here is Kathleen’s original post”

The guys behind the legendary core brand alife, Rob and Arnell, are not the type of guys who are going to spill their guts to media about how they stay so original in order to prove their cred-factor. They simply are original and have gained cred by working seriously hard for a long time on aesthetics, product, and quality results that embrace their lifestyle—which happens to be enviable in today’s contemporary street fashion scene. These guys, who were the Creative Directors for Mass Appeal Magazine, presented graffiti art and the artists behind the scenes in such original formats that some account it for being the birth of the mainstream graff movement of today. They also started such a unique retail concept, located in the lower east side of New York City in 1999 (now expanded to 2 stores), that streetwear entrepreneurs popped up throughout the city trying to do the same thing.

However, always being one step ahead, alife has their entire infrastructure together, presenting a new collection of footwear and sneakers at Agenda and again at Project in Las Vegas last month, as part of a new movement of streetwear moving contemporary-street and popping over to Project instead of the South Hall of MAGIC.

Since their first store and magazine, which for many marked a kick-off of sorts for streetwear retail, Rob and Arnell have created an entire clothing collection, accessories, footwear, books, and various high-end collabs, including a high-profile collab with Levi Strauss resulting in a co-branded 501 jean. The alife retail concept now also includes the alife Rivington Club which features a collection of other street fashion brands, and then the alife brands.

We met up with Ari Langsdorf from The Foundation (formerly the Vanguard Group) who works with alife in creating solid sales, distribution, and brand curating programs where he gave us the quick lowdown on alife, their latest footwear collection, usage of new materials and style concepts, new denim line, recent collab with Girl Skateboards, and plans for moving into the worldwide arena.

Kathleen Gasperini 

Label Networks

www.labelnetworks.com/

The Nike ad.

The man himself – Saul Williams

Go get your schwag!